Edelrid Megajul and DMM Belaymaster I've just bought a Edelrid Megajul and in the instruction manual one of the pictures with big cross through it has a silhouette of a DMM Belaymaster. For general cragging or gym use with medium to fat ropes I highly recommend the Jul 2 over the mega jul. It continues to the day with the mission of representing the true essence of climbing. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling. I used the mega jul as my primary device through the summer of 15 and spring of 2016. At first, the company made braids and cords. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. It’s most similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul ($34.95) and the Mammut Smart ($29.95), but adds the benefit of a much softer catch. If you have a habit of reading belay device reviews for some weird reasons Gri Gri is always ranked first or top 3. Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives … 189 . The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. The Edelrid Mega Jul. The ABD that I personally use and happily paid for without any complain is the Ederid Mega Jul. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. In TR the Jul 2 worked just like the Mega Jul, but easier, in two senses. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. PSA: Edelrid updates Mega Jul guide mode instructions As seen in images 8d and 8e here the locker passing through the rope must also go through the thumb loop. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. You can expect durability and longevity out of this device thanks to its stainless steel construction. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. Since then I’ve plenty of them at the crag so it was great to get hold of the new Jul² which has been designed for single rope use. Edelrid Mega Jul. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. I can't fathom why they don't want these working together. I originally got an Edelrid Mega Jul for use alpine climbing. Disappointing. (EN): EDELRID Micro Jul & Mega Jul This Video shows how to use EDELRID's 2013 presented belay devices Mega Jul and Micro Jul. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The Mega Jul Sport is a simple, light, and effective belay device. Here is the operational video which Edelrid have released to go with the Mega Jul. The faces might have changed over the years but EDELRID remains an innovative a... Find Out More This is by far the best device in the Edelrid Jul family and a great option for an all around device. I think its best if they explain how to use it. EDELRID – MICRO JUL & MEGA JUL (EN) from EDELRID on Vimeo. PRODUCT INFORMATION. The Mega Jul also weighs much less than the smart (65g instead of 125g). The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. Using the Edelrid MegaJul belaying leaders, abseiling and in guide mode belaying a second . I’m not bothering myself to find out when it was launched. Here is why: The assisted-brake capability is a must have safety feature. Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. In 2013 I tested the Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, my conclusion was that it was a great performing device with a little bit of practice. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Also check out the Edelrid Micro Jul - a smaller version suitable for 6.9mm - 8.5mm twin and double ropes and 8mm - 9mm single ropes. An innovative bit of design means that the Mega Jul auto-locks when the climber falls, once locked … Firstly it handles the fat, fuzzy, semi-static TR ropes that Earth Treks uses better than the Mega Jul does. In theory it's great, but I found too many compromises in real world use. Weight 69g! For smooth rappels with Mega Jul use two HMS (not recommended by Edelrid, use at your own risk) + autoblock or use Edelrid Pure or Petzl Spirit binner as a handle (recommended by Edelrid, although the learning curve to get into it is kinda steep). The Edelrid Mega Jul is perhaps the most versatile belay device going around if you have the dedication to learn how to use it.. That sums up my thoughts on the Mega Jul!. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. I originally got an Edelrid Mega Jul for use alpine climbing. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. There were two batches of Edelrid Micro Jul’s (batch 1/13 & 2/13) that had issues with the wire pulling out (the Mega Jul never had this problem, nor did any other batches of the Micro Jul). That sums up my thoughts on the Mega Jul! About us: The Climbing Zine was started in 2010 by Al Smith III and Luke Mehall. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. Some downsides: I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the price. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. We found this video on the Mega Jul to be quite helpful. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay devices), scratches and notches the alloy of the krab you use it with. You can use it just like a standard belay device and it is safe to use with ropes from 7.8mm - 10.5mm diameter. The Mega Jul … The new kid on the block. It is well worth watching the video to get some idea of the full range of use that the Mega Jul offers. The Mega Jul is rated up to 10.5mm, while the Jul 2 is rated up to 11mm, so this isn't a big surprise, even though ET claims these ropes are 10.1mm. EDELRID was founded by Julius EDELmann and Carl RIDder in 1863. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an amazing assisted-brake (loosely referred to as "auto-locking") ATC. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a pretty special bit of kit. If you typically use a medium rope in the 9.4 to 9.6 range it's ok. It has become my number one go-to belay device. The Edelrid Mega Jul is perhaps the most versatile belay device going around if you have the dedication to learn how to use it. Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. I don’t know how long. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a lightweight stainless steel belay device suitable for light and fast alpine adventures or multi-lap cragging days. Good for belaying up a second and rappelling in both a high friction and a low friction mode. Using skinny, wet, icy ropes with mitts, I was quite aware that if my partner ever The Edelrid Giga Jul belay device, MSRP: $50 Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. Our crown jewel is our printed version, but we also do the interweb thing, and Kindle. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The Mega Jul … My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. In fact, I now use it exclusively for both indoor and outdoor climbing. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The problem was that the machine stamping the wire into place wasn’t stamping it correctly. It had been on the market for….. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. Onsight Climbing - How to Use Edelrid Mega Jul. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Apparently Edelrid didn't announce this change but snuck it in. After A LOT of requests (and an guide mode update) we finally managed to get our hands on an Edelrid Mega Jul assisted breaking belay device...and on todays we going to take you through the in's and outs, the ups and downs and the round abouts that make this thing tick...get ready for some serious tech-ery and Matt's favourite catch phrase 'NEVER EVER EVER EVER LET GO OFF THE DEAD ROPE!' 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