Larger slip joint knives are a somewhat different case. Again, the holes are reamed and deburred. I will attach the handle scales to the liners using super glue and a couple of 1/16" stainless pins. There is tension on the blade at this point. AL WARREN CUSTOM KNIVES offers a variety of quality, custom handmade hunting knives & pocket knives for sale. From shop CurateNYC. The excess glue that seeped thru the holes in the liners is cleaned up and the holes for the rest of the pins are drilled thru the handle scales. But I still have to cut in the nail nick and put my mark on the blades before they're ready to go in the oven. Remember the two parallel lines I scribed on the blade edge? I put the pivot pin in and the rear pin in and then had to tap the center pin in because of the offset. Makin progress! There are no set rules when it comes to designing a slip-back folding knife but there are some guidelines that could help one in starting out making a slip-back folding knife. It features lightweight Grade 5 titanium scales, Cherrywood inlays, and a short, but effective 2.35″ blade made from Sandvik 14C28N steel. The Lockback Knife: From first Design to Completed Folding by Stefan Steigerwald Peter Fronteddu Spiral-bound $23.99 4.3 out of 5 stars 22. I cut a piece big enough to cover the liners and split it using my wood cutting bandsaw. or Best Offer. My patterns for the blade and backspring are clamped to the piece of steel. Might as well cut the choil now while I'm thinking about it. It's important to leave a little extra "meat" on the blade tang (part around where the pivot pin goes) to allow for adjusting the fit of the blade and spring later in the process. The remaining 3 larger pins will hold the 2 halves of the knife together. Now I've got to cleanup the parts again. With the center hole drilled thru the liners, I now put in a temperary pin to hold things in place. It is important when making a slipjoint folder that the blade and backspring are the same thickness and are as flat as possible. New Twosun Knives One Solid Titanium M390 Pocket SLIP JOINT Knife TS254-Solid. I've pulled the temperary pins and disassembled the knife so I can adjust the stiffness of the spring, but I think I'll relieve the liners first while I've got the knife apart. So I drilled the pin holes in the liners. I've removed the blade and pivoted the rear of the spring slightly up. The holes in the handle scales for the pins have been slightly reamed on the handle side to allow space for the pins to expand when I peen them. Ending Today at 1:00PM PST 46m 41s. I've placed a 3/8" forstner bit in the drill press and adjusted the depth stop so it stops about 0.050" short of going thru the handle scale when I drill the pocket. SKU: CR6404. The parts are sealed in the pouch to keep oxygen away from the blade while it is in the oven. As a result, some manufacturers have returned to a classic design: the slip-joint folding knife, sometimes called a non-locking folder. $50.00. This reduces the amount of scale that is built up and simplifies cleanup afterward. There are other ways to do this, but I find that using this method it's easy for me to keep the cut square with the flats of the blade. These designs are suitable for anyone with a drill press and some basic hand tools. If all goes right, the pin will blend in with the washers and will not be visible. The original modern slip joint knife. I then use the straight reamer to ream the hole to proper size. I think I'm gonna like this punch thing...quick and easy with no mess. Slip Joint Knives do not give a false sense of security. I've also done a little shaping on the liners to remove material on the blade side...now it looks a little more like a knife. Anyhow, I made one...it ain't pretty, but it works. $115.50. The hollow grinding is done on the belt grinder using an 8 inch contact wheel. For the knife I will be designing in this tutorial I was inspired by a Reese Bose Shadow pattern construction folder. Alright, here's the result of all that peening. I use a piece of tape to help me keep the grinds lined up on both sides of the blade. I've not gotten into shields yet, so this will be my substitute. Kissing Crane knife Yellow Handle 3 blade Whittler knife new in box. It’s a pretty difficult task to explain the geometry involved in making a slip joint pocketknife. 4.9 out of 5 stars 234 # 1 Best Seller in Metal Work. I use the open position as the reference point and adjust the closed position to match. Then it will be time to pin the knife together permanently. Here are the parts after they have been profiled out. Paperback. These are the smaller holes at the midline of the liners. It's especially tricky when using fragile handle material so you quit before you split the material. Prior to pinning the knife together permanently, I've used a tapered reamer on the pivot hole to make space for the pivot pin to swell into when I pein the knife together. Better start by saying that my method for doing this is not necessarily the best method. I've got the holes drilled in my liners and have assembled the knife with temperary pins. I place a temporary pin thru the pivot hole in the liner and apply glue to the liner surface. I have a rotary vise installed on the mill table and have offset the cutter from the center. Once I saw what went into hand making a slipjoint I didn't have a big problem putting the money into a custom knife. $30.00. Now to put it together for the last time. It’s also available in a full-titanium version for $20 more. I start by laying the handle scale on the liner and marking where the pivot hole will be. Modern knife locks can take a pounding before they break. The picture shows the results...handle scales glued to liners with all pin holes drilled out. I'm planning to use 3/32" pins, so I drill pilot holes with a slightly undersized bit and then ream the holes to 3/32" with a straight reamer. I also prepare a 0.002" shim to place between the blade tang and liner so I will not lock up the blade by peening it too tight. Here's the blade rotated to the closed position...about right before heat treating. The holes in the liners is used as the guide for the drill bit. It I try it now, I'll likely gall the inside of the spring where it is in contact with the blade. I know, I'm jumpin around all over the place, but I'm new to making these and haven't done it enough to make it flow really well. Now to test the action. I start by creating a pouch using stainless steel foil. I've done this to keep from scraping the abrasives off my grinding belt when I start hollow grinding the blade. Then the final edge was put on. Here's a pic of the knife with the excess material ground off of the spine. Maybe with a little more practice it will become second nature. I use the little piece of titanium as a backer for the sandpaper. I took a slip joint class with Bill Ruple and Rusty Preston in TX and met Enrique Pena while there. Here's a view of the open profile...time to grind the blade. Here she is...Finally!!!! However, the Fallkniven U1 is a worthy addition. Because the first cut is slightly angled back, and the second cut is also slightly angled up, there is no way to get right in the corner with the mill. I only want to taper the hole part of the way in, so I used a piece of tape as a guage to keep me from going too deep. I have plans to make a slip joint soon and would like to make some sort of a Prototype to make sure everything works like it should before using all the nice materials. I placed the nick out close to the tip of the blade thinking that this would give more leverage when opening the knife as I'm hoping to have a spring that's slightly on the stiff side. It doesn't take much to bring the parts back to where they were prior to the heat treating process. "The strong double-bladed pocket knife is the best model I have yet found, and, in connection with the sheath knife, is all sufficient for camp use." Bladesmiths are particularly reliant on the generosity of other makers when they are first starting out. They are then taken out to cool and the process is repeated for another 2 hours. I grind most of my blades after heat treatment, so I've got to keep the blade cool or I risk ruining the temper. Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry Dr. Larrin Thomas. While this was going on, I placed the springs back in the kiln to temper at a much higher temp than I can get with the toaster oven. Here I've taken 2 pieces of the stainless sheet that I just cut and clamped them together. Here's the result...both liners have been relieved around the pivot. I thought you might find it interesting to see the process I use to make one of these, so I decided to take a few pictures as I go along. I did some trials using a dressed stone, but the nicks I cut this way had washed out corners, so I'm gonna give this a try. I don't like wimpy springs. The aluminum plates do 2 things...they pull the heat out of the steel and cool the steel quickly (very important) and they keep everything nice and flat (no warpage). The hole in the spring is used as a guide and both liners are drilled thru. This simply means that instead of bolsters, it will have washers installed around the pivot pin on the outside of the handle scales. Here's what it looks like now. Boker Plus 01BO069 Slack Slip Joint Folder. The spring is a bit too stiff still, so I'll have to make an adjustment on the inside surface of the spring. Notice that I have a small bump right in the corner where the 2 cuts meet. I start by making the first cut using a cut off wheel in my drill press. I'll have to file that away. Here's a quick look at how the knife is shaping up. The blade and spring flats are cleaned up  using the sandpaper on the glass trick. I don't have to worry much about that using this micarta. Well, the photo turned out blurry, but you can at least see that there is a mosaic pin placed in this side of the knife. It's a pretty big folder, and I want to add a way of attaching a lanyard to it to make it easy to pick out of my back pocket. I modified the ram in this little arbor press to hold the punch while I give it a good whack. Its more famous brother has admittedly stolen most of the limelight from the Douk-Douk, though frankly I … Back to the spring adjustment thing...while I'm at the grinder adjusting the spring tension, it's a good time to adjust the tang of the blade so that the spring is the same height in the closed position as it is in the open position. I'll either have to do lots of grinding to thin it down, or I can try splitting it. Now the other cut is made. Kizer Zipslip I think I try that first. It's not too clear in the picture, but if you look close, you can see my reference line on the liner. Notice that the cut is slightly angled to the back...more about that later. I also decided that I'd like to dress up one side of the knife by putting in a mosaic pin in the area where a shield would normally be. To that end, the liner on top of the photo has an additional hole drilled...I'll use this hole to place the mosaic pin later. Paperback. Tharwa Valley Forge. I clean up the spring notch on the blade with some sandpaper and elbow grease...can't get into the tight spaces on the grinder. Only 6 left in stock - order soon. This is a prototype of a new design I worked up to see if I could eliminate the 90-degree corner at the joint that is often left exposed with a slip-joint. Here it is with a 600 grit satin finish...so far so good. Here's the spring after making the adjustment to lighten the tension. In the past, I've been etching my mark into the blade using an electric etcher and stencil. ... “The internal spring takes up more room and thereby creates issues with designing a knife for it.” Conversely, it challenges makers to devise new designs, which is always good for the knife industry. This is the part that is really fun for me as I get to see the knife "come to life" so to speak. We will never spam you, and you can unsubscribe at any time. Zero Tolerance 0230 Jens Anso Design Manual Opening Slip Joint Folding Knife. This archive contains 104 templates and 300 drawings which have been scanned to scale to allow them to be printed as templates. Here's the sheet I have, but it is too thick at 3/8". I'll continue to refine the bevels making sure they match on both sides and keep stepping down with finer and finer belts to get a good satin finish on the blade. $5.45 shipping. It's a slow process...the object is to swell the head of the pins on both sides of the knife enough to pull the knife together nice and tight. 8 is a traditional knife patterned after peasants’ knives found in France and much of Europe hundreds of… Notice that I've thinned out an area just ahead of the hole on the right. It does have a glaring issue with the slip joint mechanism that makes closing it a bit of an issue. OK, so far so good. Most the knives I sell are through this website, so I only do 3 or 4 shows per year. When you start with your design use a blank sheet of paper and make a free hand sketch of ideas for the outline of your knife. So, I need to drill this hole a little higher than it sits now in order to have built in tension on the spring when the knife is put together. The spring is also sitting flush with the liners in both open and closed position now. It worked pretty good! The holes were then slightly chamfered to remove burrs. I'm really liking this new mill! Since the knife laws vary across the world, it was essential to also make a non-locking slip joint model to allow users in for example the UK to also carry this great design whilst staying within the law. All Wedding & Party. Choosing an everyday carry (EDC) knife for jurisdictions with strict knife laws comes with its challenges. Many such knives may have blades and frames sturdy enough to do at least medium duty cutting, while the most robust models can do relatively heavy work. A few more things to do before the parts are ready to be heat treated. 5 out of 5 stars (851) 851 reviews. I got really tired of having to drag that thing out, etch a blade, and then clean the etcher back up again after each use. A slip joint forces you to really think about what you are trying to accomplish. $4.20 shipping. You can't see it in the photo, but I have a small gap at the bottom of the notch I cut in the blade...this is good and will make the blade nice and solid in the open position.